Mandalay: Days 1-2

Day 1

I started in Mandalay for a couple of reasons, they had the best priced flights, and apart from flying it is the shortest route to Bagan.  I arrived in the evening and let me tell you, it was nothing like Thailand.  The airport was tiny and only had two counter's open that offered bus or money exchange service.  As I had read in my research the main bus took me directly to my hostel.  The drive there was quite an experience because a lot of the roads were terrible, or just dirt.  But watching the sunset from the window while driving past fields with hidden pagodas and temples peaking out made me feel this trip was going to be something special.

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I arrived at my hostel about an hour and a half after being picked up from the airport.  This partially due to the fact that I was the last one dropped off.  I stayed at Ace Star BnB Backpacker Hostel for 360 Baht ($10 USD). I had been talking to the owner off and on via email trying to figure out transportation and asking advice on what to do in the city.  Let me tell you, this guy knew everything and was probably one of the most helpful people I have ever met.

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It was about 8 pm when I arrived and I told him I was leaving the next afternoon for Bagan so I needed to get all that I could out of my half day.  He set up to have a private motorbike driver take me all over the city.  The only catch, I had to be up at 3:30 am to be able to see everything...  Now I had been fighting a sinus infection for two days and was exhausted from traveling.  But like most times when I travel you have to just suck it up because you're only there for so long and only have so many chances for these experiences.

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I ended up going to eat at Seezar Bistro, which was right down the street that had wifi, traditional food and most everyone spoke English. I had gotten so used to speaking the little bit of Thai that I knew I was completely thrown off by Burmese, and to be honest I didn't have the brain power to try for the next few hours.

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So being in a new country, you always have to get a local traditional meal, the server recommended Shan Khao Swe which is: shan style boiled rice noodles in steamy chicken or pork broth mixed with chicken curry, tomato paste, peanuts and springs onions.  I got the chicken broth and it was freaking awesome!  After attempting to check in with the family it was bedtime to prepare for tomorrows adventures.

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Now going to bed at 9 pm in a 10 bed dorm can be quite the challenge.  Luckily, I have mastered it by using an eye mask, headphones starting out playing loud music and then falling into classical soothing melodies.  And if you need an extra kick if you aren't that sleepy I throw in one Tylenol PM (only when necessary).  However, a lot of people don't like it because they might feel bad turning on lights and being loud.  On the flip side, waking up at 3 am you don't want to be the asshole who wakes everyone up going in and out and turning on lights.  But this is backpacking and hostel living, you get used to it.

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Day 2

So I successfully woke up early, don't wake anyone up.  While waiting downstairs for my motorbike driver I found that two of the staff slept on cots behind the desk so they were available 24/7.  The first stop was to Mahamuni Pagoda where every morning they wash the Buddha's face.  It was a pretty big ceremony and there were a lot of locals and foreigners there to see it.  It was an incredible site to see, and the music and chanting made it even more intriguing. I ended up leaving before it was over because there were so many people.

 

Second stop was the Jade market which is not far from the temple.  Unfortunately we were a little too early so the inside market wasn't open yet.  But the outside market stands were starting to set up.  You can go and pick out a specific piece of jade out of the rock.  They will then cut it out for you and then you can go into the market to get it set, or whatever you want to do with it.

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The next stop was Mandalay Hill to watch the sunrise.  So normally people walk up this hill and it can take from 30 mins to an hour depending on your stamina.  However, I have been sick so I decided it was worth it pay the extra to drive up.  It was so peaceful up there.  At the top of the hill is the Su Taung Pyae Pagoda. There weren't that many tourists yet and the locals were quietly praying.  The wind was blowing, the smog wasn't as terrible yet, you could see mountains, the city and hear the chimes from the pagodas.  It was truly a moving moment.  

 

When you find yourself admiring a city in a country that you never thought you would be in.  One of those moments when you realize, damn this is my life, I am actually here.  I find these self realization moments can be incredible and scary at the same time.

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Eventually the sun rose and even though it was a little cloudy and smoggy it was still beautiful.  Once my driver and I had taken enough pictures, he was enjoying the view too, we headed down.  The best part is we went down a different way and saw more pagodas, buddhas, gardens.  There was an incredible giant buddha made out of a tree trunk.

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Next stop we went around and checked out the palace walls and multiple other pagodas.  One of the most incredible was Sandamuni Pagoda which is a Unesco heritage site.  The main pagoda is surrounded by thousands of small white pagodas.  These small pagodas house the "world's largest book" that is made up of stone tablets, one per pagoda.  Truly a site to see.

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Somehow during my other pagoda visits I was essentially hijacked, but not in a terrible way.  He showed me a few things around one temple, and then said I had to come with him to see this other one.  Seeing how he spoke somewhat decent English and was very friendly, I very touristy followed him.  Now keep in mind that all of this is happening while I'm barefoot, because you don't wear your shoes in certain temples and areas.  After essentially dragging me across the street I said ok, I have to leave now take me back.  He did and then said, now you pay me 1,000 kyat for showing you.  I laughed at him and said no because I didn't ask for that.  He shrugged almost to say, meh I tried.  I ended up giving him 200 kyat because he had been nice and showed me a couple temples that were blocked off and that I wouldn't have been able to see.

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After finally returning to my motorbike driver we headed back to the hostel so I could get that free breakfast.  Have to get all the freebies you can when backpacking.  This was followed by an amazing and much needed nap. Because I only had a few hours left in the city I wandered around and lost myself in the shops, markets, and eventually grabbed something to eat.

 

Finishing my mini exploration I went back to pack my things and waited downstairs for my bus.  I got to know the boy behind the desk, who for the life of me I can't recall his name.  He is from a smaller village about 3 hours outside of Mandalay.  His sister got him the job working at the hostel because it would be good experience for him to have.  Also for him to make some money before going off to school.  He was very excited and interested in traveling to the USA and asked me a million questions.

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Eventually the songtheaw to bus station arrived and I was off.  The bus ride was pretty easy and led to another amazing sunset.  On the drive it was fun to just observe life in this country.  Being a tall, white woman I stick out like a sore thumb and had a few fun interactions with random people.  The windows are tinted and at a gas station a woman came up to my window with her baby.  She asked me to speak English to her. Put her hand into my hand and was smiling and trying to speak English to me as best she could.  Having just finished teaching 5 and 6 year olds I loved seeing another little kiddo to talk to. A little later we had a brief stop and I saw these children playing. I made eye contact with a girl who seemed to be wrestling and beating up her brother.  They both stopped and waved and shouted, hello multiple times before stopping, laughing and wrestling more. It's normal everyday life, but just having these small moments can turn a simple bus ride into a cultural experience.

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Stay tuned for my next stop in Bagan!